1. Low-ish Cost S3d Compatible Printer For Mac Pro
2. Low-ish Cost S3d Compatible Printer For Mac Download
3. Low-ish Cost S3d Compatible Printer For Mac

Jump to to see all the posts. Back in I’d added a nice, perfectly flat mic6 aluminum tooling plate as my bed. And as a super flat surface, it’s been great. Later, I added a piece of PEI to the top which in general, is a great surface to print on. The issue, is that I have an inductive probe. And these probes are designed to detect ferrous metals, like steel, not aluminum. Because of that, with the PEI sheet on top, the probe was nearly 1mm from the top of the sheet.

Which caused various print failures over time, when some bit of plastic would ‘wick up’ while being printed, harden that way, and the probe would catch it. Based on a recommendation, a buddy of mine recently picked up a (which, for the price, is an amazing printer), that has a super slick removable flex-steel bed, with PEI (I think) impregnated on the top. And since it uses an inductive sensor as well, the steel plate is the perfect thing to detect against. After doing research onling, I found that BuildTak sells upgrade kits (‘Flexplate’) in various sizes that do this: I thought this would be a good route to go, until I saw the price: My 12″x12″ bed would run $170 for the kit. After thinking about it a bit, I realized this isn’t a complex problem to solve: All you need is a piece of thin, flat steel, and a magnet to hold it down. And what if that magnet was flat as well, with sticky on one side to hold it to my aluminum bed? After some searching on Amazon, I found these:.: 12″x24″, $9.40.: $12.60.

Total: $22 It showed up in the mail in only a few days: I cut the magnetic sheet in half for a nice 12″x12″ chunk, and stuck that directly to my aluminum bed. I took my orbital sander with some 100 grit to the steel sheet to roughen it up.

The steel sheet firmly magnetized itself in place, and I tuned my firmware for the new sensor offsets, and got to printing: Just steel, and purple gluestick: Perfect. Update: A few things to note since first posting:.

What I bought wasn’t ‘spring steel’: While you have to put some effort into it, you can bend this metal to be non-flat. Must be careful. Or, buy spring steel. I was aware of this ahead of time, this was mainly a test.

I print mostly in PLA, and the magnet & adhesive have done fine at 60c. However, I have no idea how well that magnet or adhesive would do at say, 110c printing ABS.

Be aware of that if it’s your setup. If this (magnets + adhesive + heat) becomes an issue, I plan to CNC some pockets into my bed, and drop in some strong magnets. That for high-temp applications, you want to go with ‘Samarium–cobalt (SmCo) magnets’. From left to right: Aluminum plate, flexible magnet, steel sheet: Here, you can see the stack of aluminum build plate, magnet, and steel sheet.

The gap between the sensor and sheet is actually larger than that, I’d not set it’s height yet. Here’s showing off a little bit of flex: And finally, a successfully printed 200 micron calibration cube directly on the steel + purple gluestick: And while it looks like there was a little bit of bed separation on that front corner, that thing was stuck down hard.

Great, cheap, easy improvement! Jump to to see all the posts. 2018 05 /09 CATEGORY TAGS. Tevo Little Monster and the C-Bot: New best friends. This blog post is mainly written as a resource to myself to track info, troubleshoot problems, and list upgrades. TLM Links:.: Main US page.: Where I bought mine from TLM Pros:.

Price: I picked it up for $750 and free shipping. Print Volume: The machine is a beast: 45″ tall (without the spool holder, which makes it even higher), with a diameter of around 23″. It has a print volume of roughly:. 500mm tall (I was able to squeeze out 510mm). 350mm diameter. One of the main reasons I bought this printer was is ‘beautiful in simplicity’ construction: Despite the size listed above, the frame is only made up of 5 parts: The 3 OpenBuilds extruded arms that connect to the top/bottom plates.

Everything was cut to the same length, and it was square immediately after bolting it together with no adjustments. Integrated in the delta effector. 120v AC bed with SSR: ‘Nuff said. Elegant electronics boxes and power cabling.

A ‘hanging bowden’ style extruder: Keeps the mass directly off the delta effector, and decreases the bowden tube length significantly. Based on experience, I dislike bowden’s and the blobs they produce. TLM Cons:. MKS SBase V1.3: While it runs Smoothieware and comes with a small touchscreen, I’ve heard quite a few problems from people running this knockoff Smoothieboard.

It also uses integrated DRV8825 steppers, which historically aren’t the best choice for 3D printers (needing separate ‘TL Smoothers’ to help remove artifacting). Knock-off hotend and extruder: While these are based on the E3D-v6 hotend and Titan extruder, they’re complete knockoffs. And they gave me more grief than anything else stock on the bot:. The knockoff Titan extruder started squeaking in the first month. The PTF fitting in the knockoff heatbreak disintegrated, dropping metal chunks into my filament path.

I didn’t realize this until taking the whole thing apart and shinging a light in there, and seeing stuff reflect back. I didn’t realize it at the time, but it appears that the heatbreak isn’t all metal (like a standard E3D): It had some sort of plastic liner. Later, that liner failed, and completely jammed it. I’m not sure the ‘.4mm nozzle’ was really.4mm at all.

After swapping to a legit.4mm volcano nozzle, I noticed an improvemnt in print quality. Basically, ditch that entire hotend for the real thing and save yourself a bunch of pain. The bed isn’t removable. However, you have plenty of access to it, so I don’t feel removing prints from it should be an issue. And since it’s mounted directly to the base of the machine, I don’t see any calibration issues if I have to really pull on the print to get it off. Upgrades: First thing, the knock-0ff Smoothieboard had to go.

My C-Bot has been running RepRap Firmware on a RADDS setup for some time, so for this bot, it was time to get the real deal: A Duet Ethernet with touchscreen. Installed:.

Duet Ethernet. TLM.

PanelDue with 7″ Touchscreen. for the three tower steppers. (Out of).

extruder &.9 deg E3D. for the three towers: Noticeable improvement in quality. Real E3d-v6 Volcano.4mm nozzle & heatbreak (hotblock, heater cartridge, and thermistor are still TLM) Future:.

Remaining parts of a real E3D-v6 Volcano Hotend (hotblock, heater cartridge, and thermistor) Duet Pros I can’t say enough good things about the Duet ecosystem. 32 bit processor, no delta computation speed issues. Live tuning of nearly every value: Via the Duet Web Interface (or any connected gcode sender) you can live tune nearly ever firmware setting. Updating firmware is as easy as uploading a single file. No pre-compile (or Arduino IDE) necessary. Integrated steppers + 1/256 silence: The integrated TMC2660 drivers, when driven at 1/16 microstepping uses their ‘microPlyer’ tech to interpolate to 1/256: The loudest thing on the machine is the PSU’s fan.

Creepy quiet. You can check out their pdf datasheet for more techy-info,. RepRap Firmware: Having used Marlin, Repetier, and Sailfish firmwares in the past, RRF is hands down my favorite. Super easy to edit, and create custom macros. Duet Web Control (DWC): Comes with its own web-server, similar to Octoprint, but specifically for the Duet hardware. Actively developed, active community/forum.

Duet Links.: Main page. for the Duet Boards. DWC:. RepRap Firmware Links.: reprap.org. Github:.: Via the DWC.

Firmware Configuration:. Calibrate Z-Probe, endstops for delta:. Wizards:. (I’ve not yet used this). for probing.: Set Delta & Endstop Configuration.

Assembly Notes The assembly of the TLM took a little under three hours with the help of a friend, following the printer instructions that came with it. Nothing was missing, nothing went wrong. The only think that took a chunk of time was rewiring the electronics to plug into the Duet.

For setting up the TLM with the Duet, this is the assembly guide I used:: This was a lifesaver! Used all their firmware configurations by default.

There’s also a forum post that discusses this conversion. Had to rewire the endstops: The order of the wires that plug into the Duet are a very different order from the wires that plugged into the MKS SBase, and are an even different order than how they plug into the endstops themselves. Tracking this order is (obviously) really importing when rewiring them!. All the other connectors that plugged into the MKS SBase plugged directly into the Duet, except I had to cut off the side-clips so they could slide into the Dupont conectors correctly. A combo of side-cutters and exacto-knive.

BLTouch:. Had two sets of wires: One needed entirely rewired to plug into the Duet expansion pin, while the other needed trimmed & rewired to a single plug, since the other wires weren’t needed. Had to cut the trace on the board (after removing from the delta effector) to switch it from 12 to 24v. I needed to switch the PSU from 220v to 110v, based on where I live.

As it turns out, the thermistor for the heated bed was bad: I kept getting 9000 deg reading from the firmware. However, and somewhat coincidentally, they shipped with an extra thermistor; I taped it to the bottom of the silicon heater, and it was up and running.

The top of each of the tower carriages has a small set-screw that is what trips the optical endstops. I hadn’t done any adjustments to these: They ‘looked’ ok. A few weeks of printing later I checked them with my calipers, and they were up to 1.5mm off from each other, and felt loose in their threads: I removed them all, applied blue threadlocker, and screwed them in so a consistent amount was sticking out the top (6mm seemed like a good number). Slicer Configuration I use Simplify3D as my primary slicer: It actually has a built-in preset for the TLM: Help - Configuration Assistant - Select Printer - Tevo Little Monster. I only had to modify a few things to start:. In RRF’s config.g, you need to set ‘M555 P2’: This ‘sets compatibility’ to look like Marlin, when trying to communicate with host software like Simplify3D, Octoprint, etc.

Up until then I had it set to P0 (RepRap Firmware), and I couldn’t get S3D to connect. What’s interesting is that the baud rate seems to not matter: I’ve had a number of different values and it connects fine. RADDS, on the other hand, needs 115200. Created a new ‘Tools - Firmware Configuration’ setup for all the appropriate RepRap Firmware G & M codes. It’s also important in the ‘Communication’ tab to set ‘Flow Control’ to ‘Hardware Flow Control’. The above Duet assembly guide Thingiverse link comes with all the needed configuration.g files to get things working properly.

To support them, here’s my start/end scripts. Obviously, you need to ‘Run Mesh Grid Compensation’ (G32) to store out the heightmap.csv that the G29 reads before print. But you really only need to do this once in a great while.; starting script G32; Run the bed.g macro which homes and auto-calibrates the machine - also loads the last mesh grid G92 E0; zero extruder M98 PpurgeBeforePrint.g; Purge the extruder along the front of the printer; ending script G1 E-10 F900; Retract 10mm at 15 mm/sec of filament to clean the nozzle. M106 P1 S0; turn off filament cooler fan M104 S0; turn off extruder M140 S0; turn off bed G28; Home all M98 PplaySong.g; play song when print ends. The purgeBeforePrint.g has the below code.

I found that printing small items, even with multiple skirts, didn’t always purge enough based on all the ‘pre-drool’ that came out of the head. This lays down a fat line across the front. A lot like my old Makerbot used to do. G1 X-60 Y-150 Z.4 F3600 G1 X60 Y-150 Z.4 F1200 E30. In the G-Code tab, make sure to:. Set “Relative Extrusion Distances”. Set the “Firmware Configuration Type” to the custom firmware I made above.

In the Temperatures tab, I always uncheck “Wait for temperature controller to stabilize before beginning build”, since RRF will become non-responsive until that temp is hit. I manage my own temps manually. 2017 11 /05 CATEGORY TAGS. Jump to to see all the posts. In my, I described how I completely rebuilt my C-Bot printer.

The main goal was to get better print quality based on some odd z-artifacting I’d been experiencing for some time. But, the z-artifacing still persisted. This post is to talk about both the solution to the artifact issue, and how to PID Autotune your hotend and heated bed with. Solving the Z-artifacting After the rebuild, the z-artifact was still there.

Was so frustrating to have a machine that printed so well, yet on the Z-axis, I’d get this. Jump to to see all the posts. Hard for me to believe I built the C-Bot just over two years ago. During that time I’ve done a number of upgrades, but a weird z-wobble had shown up in the process, that I’d been completely unable to resolve.

After discussion on the Google Group, I generated a new list of parts to re-3d print, to improve my bot. So I really can’t call this a C-bot anymore, it’s more of a C-Bot/D-Bot/Spiffbot (+ others) mashup at this point. So after two weekends of disassembly & reassembly, the CDSO-bot is back up and running.

Behold: The colors are a bit like a time machine: Anything in blue is original prints. White was printed next, and latest is gray. Overview of my updates below. Huge thanks to all of those who have put time in to improve these files, and release them for free!. Printed all new lower corner brackets based on the Spiffbot designs. These add the bulk of the rigidity to the new system. Feels like a tank now.

cornerbracket12x.stl. cornerbracket22x.stl. I remixed the D-bot top XY-idlers, extending them down on Z an extra 20mm, to provide for even more z-rigidity. RearIdlerLeftLong.stl.

RearIdlerRightLong.stl. Switched my X-endstop to now be on the X-carriage instead of the Y-gantry. Used the ‘X-endstop mount for the direct-drive gantry’, by pizzachef. This cleaned up a bunch of wiring from the left side. While it added more mass to the toolhead, it seems pretty negligible. Xendstopmount.stl.

XSwitchTriparm.stl. From the D-Bot remix by spauda01, leadscrew brackets and bed supports:. 2-LeadScrewBracket.stl. 4-BedSupport.stl. All new smaller, 3-wheel brackets for my Y Gantry, by BucketOchicken.

These are nice in providing slightly more space on +/- Y. H-BarLeft.stl. H-BarRight.stl. 3WheelXYBacker.stl.

Used some silicon caulk to affix a 12″ square chunk of cork under the heated bed. Hopefully will heat up faster, and save some energy. Switched from the front/back leadscrew design to the “middle, side-by-side design” (+ brass nuts), just to try something new, since I had the spare extrusion. The extrusion is held in place by triangular aluminum brackets, making the base even more rigid. The top front X-beam is now held in place my much stronger aluminum triangle-brackets. Here’s another pic of some of the updated parts I printed, mocked up to make a very tiny printer 😉 Successes:.

Once I rebuilt everything, and got all the electronics re-hooked-up, everything still worked! No magic smoke, nothing exploding. The dumb z-wobble I was experiencing is gone!.

Update: Wait, no it’s not. Issues:. With the new L/R leadscrew config, they now hit both my “beefy print cooler fan” (on the left), and my inductive probe (on the right) if printing all the way to the edge of the volume: I’ll need to remove them, and cut about an 1″ off to solve that problem. I ran out of T-nuts: I had a surplus during my last build, but this one used up all the remaining ones, and then some.

So waiting for that delivery slowed things down a bit. Even with the giant new base-corners, it still wasn’t square on top: While the based seemed to be nice and square, it took some time to get all the top extrusions back in line. Overall, a very successful rebuild. Here’s to another two years of 3d printing!

Jump to to see all the posts. 2017 06 /19 CATEGORY TAGS.

I printed so many 3dBenchies for this comparison. Preface I’ve been a 3d printing hobbyist for right around five years now: I purchased my first printer, a Makerbot Replicator 1 (which I still own, still prints great) in March of 2012. Since then I’ve used multiple slicers to generate my, but mainly (and in order):, MakerWare (now ),. And for the time I used them, they’ve all been great. I’ve also a few years ago. However, and as much as I like Simplify3D:.

Despite it does so many things so well. The fact that I paid cash money for it. And that their updates are so few and far between.

And the updates don’t include fixes to some major issues I feel it has I thought I should revisit what slicer software 2017 has available. I know that slicer software is like religion, politics, and CAD software: People can get very attached to them. And there’s a good chance someone out there is going to disagree with my findings: That’s great, I’d like to hear your perspective, leave a comment below. Everyone uses the software differently, and the things I find important (or not) could be polar opposite of someone else. Based on a, it looks like these slicers are out in the wild and commonly used.

Yes, there are more, but these seem to be popular:. After reviewing all of them, and for reasons listed below, I decided to investigate Slic3r Prusa Edition.

And mainly that edition over vanilla Slic3r because vanilla Slic3r hasn’t been updated since mid 2015, while the Prusa edition is being actively developed (+ extra fancy features). I know vanilla Slic3r is still being developed, it’s just been a while since an official release has gone out. Update: As it turns out, dev releases of vanilla Slic3r are generated often, so it’s pretty easy to be on the cutting edge, find downloads. This is not a post designed to bash Simplify3D and espouse the values of some other slicer: My goal is to make it an honest comparison of the two software. It should be noted however, I have over two years of experience with S3D, and only a few weeks on Slic3r, but so many of the concepts of the software overlap, I feel I have a pretty good grasp of it. Finally, why am I writing this?

It’s taken quite a while to do all the research! Mainly for myself actually: I wanted to get all my research down on paper to see if I should make a slicer switch or not. There are so many facets to all of this, I wanted to get it in one place to make sure I wasn’t missing anything. I will continue to update it over time, see bold “ Update” text below. What I used for testing. 3D printer hardware:. My custom core-xy: It has a 12x12x21″ build volume, auto-leveled on a heated, removable, mic6 aluminum bed covered in a PEI sheet.

Runs RepRapFirmware on 32-bit RADDS/Due electronic. All steppers set to 1/128 microstepping using SD6128 drivers. I currently print mainly PLA out of a.6mm E3D-v6 Volcano nozzle at 230 degrees on a 60 deg bed, with active PLA cooling from a ducted 24cfm fan. 3D Model: I used the good’ol as my test model for all comparisons, except the thin-wall compare, it’s linked to below.

So let’s get into it Simplify3D Version Tested: 3.1.1. (unofficial). Unique things it does well These are things I’ve found it to do, that other slicers may not. Or it does better. Multiple ‘Processes’:. A process in S3D is basically a print preset.

And you always need at least one:. x.

The power comes into play however, that you can assign them per mesh to print (if there are multiple being printed):. Or by layer height:. You can even ‘group’ processes so as to link their similar parameters together, so changing one changes all others (see how this works ). This is extremely powerful, and arguably one of the best parts of the software.

And when I need it, it’s great. But honestly 95% of the time I don’t need it. Not that it effects me so much, but it has pre-configured profiles for many printers, allowing a larger market-share to have success with the software sooner. I should note that I’ve found no other slicer that treats “processes” as well as S3D.

This is a major selling point, and brings much power and convenience when needed. Print options:. In its ‘Advanced Mode’, there’s a knob to tune just about every aspect of your print. Post processing of gcode:. You can modify the output of the gcode via S3D’s own custom syntax. You can see on an example of how to do it.

Printer communication & machine control panel. S3D has a robust “machine control panel” for operting your printer, issuing gcode, printing gcode either over USB, or via SD. It also allows you to make your own macro’s that show up in the UI. Manual supports:. An area where S3D really shines, is how easy it allows you to place and generate your own support material (vertical columns). Even in ‘manual’ mode, you can place them ‘automatically’, then add/remove them as you need. A nice feature is you can toggle on/off ‘from built platform only’, so you can generate automatic supports for everything touching the bed, the later add in manual supports as needed elsewhere.

Support removal has always been great. Technical support:. Yes, they actually get back with you if you email them with a problem. Active forums:. Linked above: A very active community. Gcode previewer:.

Does a great job displaying gcode through a variety of filters (print speed, feature type, etc). Slicing speed:. Fastest slicer I’ve ever used, 3DBenchy sliced in 1 second. Print results:. There’s no question that once you get your settings tuned right, S3D produces great results. Object transformation:.

In addition to translation rotation scale of parts on the build platter (either via a manip, of numeric entry), you can also specify dimensions, and it will scale to match. Multi OS support:. I’ve used it on powerful PC’s, and pretty old Mac’s, and it’s never had a problem.

Things it does not do well This list is the main reason I started looking for other slicer options. The “ Major Issues” are things that I personally feel really, really need to be addressed. Thin wall detection:.

“ Major issue“: If you have a wall that’s.5mm thick, but you’re printing with a.6mm nozzle (or extrusion width), S3D won’t print it. This drives me (and many others) nuts, considering old slicers like Makerware handled this just fine.

Simply having the ability to ‘opt in’ would be great. Since I print with large (.6 - 1.2mm) volcano nozzles, it means many files are simply unprintable. Automatic supports:.

“ Major issue“: S3D does a great job with manual supports (that you place by hand, which can be accurate but time consuming), but it’s automatic supports (most commonly used) are some of the worst I’ve seen, because it doesn’t support any type of stalactite (or icicle) like feature. While the supports it creates are fantastic, and remove great (better than any other slicer I’ve used), when it fails to create them at all where it should ‘automatically’, that’s a major failure. I have an ongoing thread with plenty of pics showing this problem. This is a straight up bug that other slicers don’t have any problem with.

In fact, Simplify3D, KISSlicer, ( Update:) CraftWare and ideaMaker have this problem: Cura, Makerware, Slic3r, and ReplicatorG all handle this just fine. Here’s an informative pic with the problem. Just imagine how this can make your prints fail, I’ve had many wreck because of it:. Cost, no trial version:. That about says it all. I’ve been told they’ll refund you if you don’t like it after you buy it. But seriously, there should be a trial for software like this for new people.

Timely updates. They have maybe one update a year and since it’s closed source software, you have no idea when its going to be released, or what will be in it. And the last update was pretty lackluster as far as major bugfixes (anything on this list) or improvements.

Listening to their community:. While they do have tech support (that does respond), they seem to be completely absent from the forum.

Which I personally find quite questionable, since it gives the impression they don’t care about their user base. There can be a certain topic that has 5 pages of people voting it up, but you never hear if the developers know, or care. Toolpath simplification of high res mesh:. “ Major issue“: This is another major gripe of mine I’ve talked with tech support about, and they seem to have no want to address: If you pass in a very high-res mesh from zbrush (for example), that may have a much higher poly density that what can actually be printed, the software will do no sort of simplification on the tool path. The result is that it still tries to print all the detail, and the fallout is your print having a surface quality of oatmeal.

I have example prints that show this off pretty well, as they transition from low-poly to highres mesh. Their suggested fix is that you manually decimate all your models. But this means any time I scale a model, I have to re-decimate it for that particular scale (and how do I know how much to decimate it?).

That’s horrible. Considering other slicers, like ancient Makerware or Slic3r do this for you. Update:, but here are some pics showing it off. If you enlarge the pic on the right the quality difference is pretty clear. Lumping printer settings, print settings, and filament settings into the same preset/Process. Not the end of the world, but since all these things are saved together, it means I need to have a lot of processes for every speed, resolution, and filament type combo.

Splitting these settings up (like Slic3r) would only make data management easier. Process Storage:. Even though S3D does a great job with it’s ‘processes’, it took a step backwards with it’s v3 release: Up until then, when you’d save a process, it would save on your hard drive, allowing for multiple people to easily share process values. But with v3, all process are saved “internally” in the software, making it very hard to do any sort of distributed process sharing between employees. Yes, you can export them out to your HD, but this creates an extra, unnecessary step.

The issue is discussed. Update: In addition, if you ever ‘reset S3D to factory settings’, it will wipe all your custom process and firmware setups without warning. Which would be a non-issue if theses were stored on disk. I’ve been bit by this in the past, its painful. Slic3r Prusa Edition Version Tested: 1.33.8-prusa3d-win64. (vanilla Slic3r).

Unique things it does well These are things I’ve found it to do, that other slicers may not. Or it does better. Splitting printer settings, print settings, and filament settings into different presets. I love this feature.

I can mix and match printer settings, print settings, and filament settings as needed. Cuts way down on the number of ‘profiles’ needed vs say, S3D. Plus they’re all saved on disk, easily shareable. Toolpath simplification of highres mesh:. You can specify a ‘minimum detail resolution’ that will help it print higres mesh better. Great feature. Thin wall detection.

If two walls are close together, they can be collapsed into one, so as to not cause an overextrusion problem in that area. In addition, within reason (and discussed below in more detail), it will print a collapsed single wall much thinner than your nozzle width, which is desirable. Variable layer height.

Powerful new feature allowing you to smoothly adjust the print resolution over height. See an informative post. Unique infill:.

In addition to what you’d expect out of a slicer (hexagona, triangluar, grid, etc) Slic3d has additionl types like cubic and 3d honeycomb. Unique top layer infill:. Whoe doesn’t love a hilbert curve for their top layer, eh?. Notes. Simple, but handy: There’s a notes page for your prefs, to jot down extra info. Max volumetric speed:. A handy way, mainly when dealing with bigger volcano nozzles, to limit how much material you extrude.

Based on resarch, the common thought is a volcano heater can melt about 30 mm3/sec, so you can actually enter that in, to make sure you don’t try to extrude more material than you can actually melt. Which I’ve done before, it’s not good.

Verbose cooling description:. A little thing, but they have a human-readable paragraph describing how your print cooling fan is going to work, based on the values you set. gcode postprocessing via scripting language of your choice:. This is pretty great: You can pass in code from any scripting language (Python, Perl, JavaScript, etc) to postprocess your gcode. I found this valuable when I had to modify the gcode output to support my RepRap Firmwares, by writing a custom pos-tprocesser in Python. Slicing speed:. Not as fast as S3D, but still pretty fast.

3dBenchy sliced in 4 seconds. Update: Based on the v1.34 release, which the state moved to a parallelized slicing system, dropped the benchy to a 2 second slice time.

Print options:. In its ‘Advanced Mode’, there’s a knob to tune just about every aspect of your print. Update: Octoprint connection:. It can connect to, and upload gcode directly to Octoprint. Update: Run it from the command line.

Fully scriptable from the command-line, no window needed! That’s great for custom toolchains. Update: Object Modifiers. Object Modifiers allow you to use stl files to define volumes of your print for custom print settings. This is similar to S3D’s ‘processes’, except you can use an stl to define a volume to define the custom settings, rather than just a layer height. You can use your own stl files, or it provides primitives like box, cylinder, sphere, and slab.

With the later you only have to define a height, so it acts a lot like defining a S3D process height. In this example, I have a helix for print, and two cubes defining volumes for custom print settings:. Things it does not do well. Printer communication. The Prusa edition has the option to connect directly to your printer over a serial/usb connection, but I’ve been unable to get it to work, up through version 1.34.1.24. Just says my printer is ‘not detected’. Vanilla Slic3r (1.29) doesn’t have this option at all.

It just means you need some other sender software like or (or, ironically, Simplify3D). The 1.3 dev branch of vanilla Slic3r does have this ability, and I have tested it successfully. Thin wall detection:. This is a pro above, but I also found it to be a con: There were issues on my 3dBenchy tests (mainly the flag-pole hole on the stern) where it would collapse thin walls, but not replace them, causing gaps to form in the walls. Disabling this option caused noticeable over-extrusion in some areas.

Update: You can track this issue. Mac support: It crashes a lot on my (old) mac. No problem on my PC. Update: Adjusting settings print settings per model:. Slic3r only lets you modify the ‘print settings’ per model, you can’t adjust printer or filament settings, which would help greatly.

Update: x3g support:. This only matters if you have a Makerbot printer (like myself), but while you can export a Makerbot-flavored gcode, you’ll still need some external tool (like ) to convert the gcode to x3G. Technically since Slic3r supports postprocessing of gcode, it could call out to a x3g converter via a scripting language of your choice as well. Update: Saving/loading ‘scenes’:. It seems a bit awkward to save and load a ‘scene’. To me, a ‘scene’ is the current 3d mesh on the platter, plus all the current machine, print, and, printer configuration states. You can do it, but (instead of the File menu) via “Platter - Export Plate as AMF”.

You can later “Add” the xml file that process generates, which has the effect I’m after, it’s just a weird/clunky process. Update: I’ve read that per it now supports a.prusa format that should handle this but I can’t actually find that functionality in the software. Update: Undo: Slic3r hands undo ok inside the print printer filament settings, but it doesn’t work on the platter: I accidentally hit “Delete All”, and I was unable to get my data back Comparing Simplify3D & Slic3r’s successes & failures. Print Quality.

They both print great, in my opinion, see the below section with all the pretty pictures. After setting up similar profiles in both slicers and printing 3dBenchies, the results look different, but great. Overall level of print settings:. They both provide a similar level of knobs to twist for designing your print settings. Setting organization:. While Simplify 3D’s ‘processes’ are great, based on the fact that I use multiple ones so infrequently, I give Slic3r the win here, since it allows you to split you printer settings, print settings, and filament settings to separate presets, while Simply3D lumps them all into one. Plus Slic3r’s are saved on disk, while S3D hides them inside the software.

Gcode previewer:. S3d’s better than slic3r for the fact it has more ways to preview the gcode. However, both of them physically render the gcode about the same. Gcode postprocessing:. Slic3r wins here, with it’s ability to use any scripting language. Printer Communication:.

S3D does a great job with its Machine Control panel. Update: Slic3r’s only seems to currently work in a dev branch. Supports:.

The supports that S3D actually creates (manual or automatic) are fantastic, but when it completely fails to ‘automatically’ support certain features that cause print failure, it’s just sad. Slic3r’s supports are pretty standard, but don’t fail when they shouldn’t, so it gets a win for just being status-quo. Both software could learn from the other. Object Transformations:.

S3D wins here, providing more tools that are easier to use. Tech support & forums: S3D for the win, just a bigger community (or better communication platform) it seems. It’s not that Slic3r doesn’t have that, S3D’s just seems more active. Thin wall detection: Even though Slic3r has some problems, the fact that it recognizes them at all (compared to S3d) is a win. Cost: You can’t beat free, Slic3r FTW. Software Updates: The Prusa Edition of Slic3r seems very actively developed who knows when S3D will get another update, or what it will even have. Highres mesh toolpath simplification: Slic3r clearly wins here, realizing this is an important aspect of any highres model.

Setting storage: Slic3r for the win here: All if it’s printer, print, and filament settings are stored on desk in ini files, easily accessed by others, while S3D hides all the settings in the software itself. Update: x3g support: S3D wins, supporting it natively, with no extra steps needed for export. Update: Slicing speed: S3D wins, but with the latest Slic3r release I tested, the gap got a lot smaller. Update: Scene saving/loading: S3D wins, it behaves like you’d expect any software too. While you can do it in Slic3r, it’s just a bit clunkier. Update: Overall experience: S3D feels like a more polished piece of software, while Slic3r sill gives me that ‘shareware’ vibe from the 90’s. Update: Setting customization per model / height: This is a tossup: S3D makes it easy to define processes by height, and you have full control to all print settings within.

Slic3r allows you to create robust Part Modifiers, but it takes a bit more time, and not all options are available within. Update: Command line api access: Slic3r has it, S3D does not.

Update: Undo: S3D handles undo great, Slic3r is missing it in some areas. Things I didn’t test. Supports: Since I did this entire test with the 3dBenchy, which requires no supports, I didn’t feel it was important to test them. But I’ve used plenty of supports generated by S3D in the past, and they were always easily better than the older slicers I used like Makerware or ReplicatorG.

I’ve actually not ever printed supports in Slic3r, just looked at the gcode output. Other slicers: I was considering mixing ideaMaker, Craftware and Cura into this test but I’d probably never have finished it.

3dPrint Comparison I should be noted that all prints have had zero cleanup work done to them. This is to show all possible flaws. Print Stats I did most of my testing with the 3dBenchy model, trying to make sure both slicers had similar values.

This is what I printed with:. 280 micron z layer heights (‘medium res’ for a nozzle this size, set to full z-stepper steps).6mm E3d-v6 volcano nozzle, extruding at.72mm. 2 shells, 3 top and bottom layers. Triangualr infill @ 30%. MakerGeeks Urban Camo PLA extruded at 230 deg, with a.97 extrusion multiplier. Printed at 60mm/sec with active filament cooling, and slowing layers down for details like the smoke stacks. The gcode for both slicers were sent over USB, via S3D.

Printer issues:. It should be noted my bot has a slight z-wobble I’ve been working on addressing. Even though I think I have it tuned in for that filament, I feel like my tests were slightly over-extruding.

Print time and weight:. Both slicers generated prints weighting 15g. Both prints took exactly 41 minutes. Visual Gcode Comparison On the left is Simplify3D, on the right is Slic3r You can note the nice on-screen legend that S3D provides, not to mention it has many other display modes. With Slic3r, on the right is what you get.

Visually, they’re about the same aside from the colors used. Poll Results I know I’m biased about what I think are good/bad print results. I though it would be interesting to see what others thought, that really have no experience with 3d printing.

I did a poll where I brought in benchies sliced in both software(shown in the pics below), put it in the kitchen, and over the course of the day let people vote on which they thought was ‘better’. I had a total of 57 people vote, and by 2:1, they chose the Slic3r version over S3D.

I didn’t tell them anything about how they were made other than “I’m comparing two different prints, what do you think is better?”. I should also note that a number of people abstained saying “I don’t see any difference”. Do I feel Slic3r’s visual results outweigh S3D’s by 2:1? But I still find the results interesting. Take them for what you will. Visual Print quality comparison Click on images to expand. Side By Side Beauty shot, side by side, S3D on the left, Slic3r on the right: Pretty darn close!

Slic3r has slightly more stringing, but at a glance they look like twins. Individual Simplify3D & Slic3r closeups: Thin wall comparison Since the bencny wasn’t the best test for this, I down laded a “” from Thingiverse, and ran them through both slicers.

I didn’t print these, but I didn’t need to: The gcode preview tells enough. FYI, the walls on the top start at.05mm (on the left), and end at 1.0mm (on the right). The walls on the bottom start at 1.0mm (on the left) and end at 3.0mm (on the right). Again, I generated this gcode with a.6mm nozzle, but with an extrusion width of.72mm (20% over).

Simplify3D Did not do well at all. It didn’t start printing until the wall with was greater than my extrusion width, so it left out all walls under.75mm. Kind of hard to print anything architectural related at scale with this limitation. Slic3r Did great: It was able to detect and deal with walls almost 1/3 the width of my nozzle, the first one being.25 mm wide. Note, this was with “Detect thin walls” turned on in the settings. With it turned off, it had the exact same results as S3D.

Slic3r ‘Detect thin walls’ issues Interesting findings: As mentioned above, Slic3r allows for thing wall detection and collapse, S3D does not. The above benchy pics of Slic3r have the “Detect thing walls” feature turned on. But I figured out, it was collapsing more than it should, in the case of the flagpole: There’s a small hole in it, which is also shown in the gcode itself: Turning this feature off fixed the flagpole, but caused a slight over-extrusion in other places, like where the bow meets the sidewalls, visualized in this comparison: Note on the right benchy, the line running parallel to the bow, below it.

But also go look at the top/first pic of the S3D/Slic3r compare above: You can see the same artifact in the S3D print as well. The thin wall collapse does help give better definition to features though, compare the portholes in these to Slic3r prints: Note how the porthole on the left has better definition.

It looks better than S3D’s as well. In Conclusion They’re both great pieces of software, and they both a have many features in my ‘pro’ sections.

But based on the cost involved, how Slic3r has matured, and how few cons Slic3r has in comparisons to S3D’s cons, I’d have a hard time recommending S3D off the bat to someone new to this: Give the free software a shot. For myself, I’m definitively going to give Slic3r Prusa Edition a look: Considering how it addresses all my ‘major con’ issues with S3D (correct automatic supports, properly handles highres mesh, deals with thin edges), I’m going to invest some serious time in it.

I think sometime in the next few months S3D should have another release if they follow years past, I definitively look forward to that will bring. Finally, I’d like to give some suggestions to the S3D dev’s if they ever end up reading this:. Regularly comment on the forums. Expose upcoming features & bug-fixes that are in development: If I knew all the problems I discussed above would be fixed in an upcoming release, I’d be far less likely to spend the hours I have looking at other slicers. Release more than once a year. Basically, stop being such a black box.

Charge a reoccurring fee rather than a single upfront lump-sum: I’d happily pay, say 5$ a month for an ongoing subscription where the above issues were met. The subscription model (that I contribute to on a montly basis) is a great example of this. 2017 03 /31 CATEGORY TAGS.

Low-ish Cost S3d Compatible Printer For Mac Pro

Hi, I'm a total noob in this 3D printing game and I'm looking to buy a sub $1000 3d printer that will work out of the box on Mac OS 10.10 Yosemite. I don't mind assembling a kit as long as it comes with human readable instructions but I don't want to be constantly messing around hacking third party firmware etc. So farI've narrowed my sleection to a few couple candidates that are available from retailers in my vicinity I noticed are supported by S3D:. Velleman K8200 or K8400. da Vinci 1.0A or da Vinci Junior Has anybody here used one of the above printers with a Mac?

Are there any other printers in my price range that anybody can recommend? What is their print quality? I'm not expecting crystal ball smooth surfaces but I'd like to not have to put disproportionate amounts of work into smoothing crude step-pyramid type surfaces. Is S3D a complete package deal? Is it the only software I need? The printer itself doesn't make a difference what os it runs on.

Its the slicing software. Basically you can pick any printer you want as long as its not a complete closed source type with its own slicer and firmware. I don't know of any off hand in your price range that would be like that. Don't know much about the velleman. Davinci though has never had a good rep for quality prints.

I'm not sure if they have improved on that in the past year or not. I hear nothing but good things about the printerbot simple metal. S3d is the only software you will need.

Low-ish Cost S3d Compatible Printer For Mac Download

Kristjanr wrote:Hi, I'm a total noob in this 3D printing game and I'm looking to buy a sub $1000 3d printer that will work out of the box on Mac OS 10.10 Yosemite. I don't mind assembling a kit as long as it comes with human readable instructions but I don't want to be constantly messing around hacking third party firmware etc. So farI've narrowed my sleection to a few couple candidates that are available from retailers in my vicinity I noticed are supported by S3D:. Velleman K8200 or K8400. da Vinci 1.0A or da Vinci Junior Has anybody here used one of the above printers with a Mac?

Are there any other printers in my price range that anybody can recommend? What is their print quality? I'm not expecting crystal ball smooth surfaces but I'd like to not have to put disproportionate amounts of work into smoothing crude step-pyramid type surfaces. Is S3D a complete package deal? Is it the only software I need? Check out the Powerspec 3DX Pro from Microcenter. It is identical to the Flashforge Creator Pro (it even has pcb's that are labeled as flashforge Creator Pro).

Last i looked, they were retailing for $699, but can be found cheaper if they're open-box or refurbs. They are excellent printers and the support from Microcenter isn't too bad if there is a hardware failure.

Low-ish Cost S3d Compatible Printer For Mac

Im using one of these on Yosemite and on El Cap beta and have no issues with simplify3D-IF i print from SD card. Printing directly from USB does hang sometimes, but this appears to happen in windows too.